Introduction

If you’re ready to raise mealworms—whether for feeders, composting, classroom projects, or just as a satisfying hobby—this guide will walk you through everything I’ve learned farming mealworms for years. I’ve designed tools (including a laser-cut pupae sifter tray) to make the job easier, and this guide pairs practical, experience-based tips with workflow suggestions so you can get the best results with the least hassle.

Prefer watching? Check out our YouTube channel for quick demos and tray walkthroughs.

1. Why Raise Mealworms?

• High in protein: great as feeders for reptiles, birds, or as a nutrient-rich compost option.
• Cost-effective: producing your own can cut feeder costs and gives you control over quality.
• Perfect for hobbyists & educators: mealworms are durable, easy to observe, and teach life-cycle lessons well.

2. Setting Up the Right Environment

Start simple. Good results come from correct basics: container, temperature, ventilation, and clean bedding.

• Containers: Use shallow plastic tubs (2–5 gallon, 6–10" deep). Shallow = more surface area = healthier colony.
• Ventilation: Drill small holes or use a screened lid to avoid condensation and keep pests out.
• Temperature: Aim for ~77–82 °F (25–28 °C) for fastest development. Cooler temps slow everything down.
• Humidity: Moderate humidity — not soaking wet. Too much moisture causes mold; too dry slows growth.

3. Feeding, Bedding & Moisture Control

Think of the bedding as both home and food. Keep the bulk feed dry and add moisture sources separately.

• Bedding base: wheat bran, oats, or a grain mash. Keep it dry and clean. Bran is most popular because it is easiest to sift with these bucket sifters. 
• Moisture sources: carrot, potato, or water gel crystals in a dish. Replace often and never let moisture sit directly in the bulk bedding. Cutting carrots or potatoes into smaller pieces helps them spread out more and get eaten faster.
• Supplements: crushed eggshells (calcium), brewer’s yeast, crushed chicken starter, or occasional greens—small additions go a long way.

4. Understanding the Life Cycle & Timing

Mealworms go through four stages: egg → larva (mealworm) → pupa → beetle. Under good conditions, larvae develop in roughly 8–10 weeks, pupae for 1–3 weeks, and beetles will begin laying eggs soon after emerging.

Tip: stagger containers by age so you always have larvae ready to harvest without emptying a single bin into chaos.

5. Why the Right Equipment Matters — (and why I love a good sifter)

Separating life stages and removing frass is the part of farming that eats time. A properly designed pupae sifter tray dramatically reduces labor and helps maintain a healthy colony by making separation quick and clean.

“If you only change one thing, improve how you separate and clean your bins.”

We sell laser-cut sifter trays designed for hobbyists and small-scale operations — they speed up sorting and make regular maintenance much easier. Purchase sifter trays (10% off)

6. Maintenance: Cleaning, Sifting & Colony Management

1. Schedule sifting: every 2–4 weeks for active bins. Move large larvae to fresh bedding and separate out pupae before they turn into beetles.
2. Frass management: remove accumulated frass regularly. It compacts and reduces airflow if left in place. It also makes worms pupate early if left unsifted, which causes deformed or undersized beetles. 
3. Stagger bins: keep multiple trays by age so you can harvest without collapsing a production cycle. A general rule is to feed of 80-90% and keep 10-20% of worms to pupate and reproduce.
4. Watch for pests: mites and pantry pests sometimes show up—clean bedding and control moisture to prevent infestations. FREEZE or BAKE bran before using! This kills off any eggs that might come from the grain mills.

7. Common Problems & Simple Fixes

8. Harvesting & Scaling Up

Harvest when larvae reach the size you want (roughly 1 inch), or when you need them. To scale, increase surface area (more trays) rather than depth. Stackable trays, rack systems, and a good sifter let you expand with minimal extra time investment.

Bonus: frass is an excellent compost for houseplants or garden beds.

9. Choosing What’s Right for You

If you’re just starting: a few shallow bins placed in a warm, stable room will get you far. If you plan to expand: invest in stackable trays, consistent sifting hardware, and an organized workflow so growth doesn’t create chaos.

Resources & Where to Order

• Get 10% off our pupae sifter trays (applies automatically when you use this link)
• Order live mealworms (partner: Midwest Mealworms)
• Join our Mealworm Farming Facebook group — active community help, photos, and troubleshooting.
• MealwormFarming.com — a community resource I run for shared tips and troubleshooting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What size container is best for beginners?

A: A shallow plastic tub of 2–5 gallons (approx. 6–10" deep) gives good surface area and control. Shallow > deep when possible.

Q2: How often should I change the bedding?

A: Replace or refresh bedding every 1–3 weeks depending on population size. For active colonies, plan to sift and refresh every week.

Q3: What should I feed mealworms?

A: Dry grain like wheat bran or oats as the base and separate moisture sources like carrots or potatoes. Small supplements (eggshells, brewer's yeast) are helpful.

Q4: How do I stop mites or pantry pests?

A: Keep bedding dry, replace old bedding, isolate and bake/freeze new feed (store sealed), and clean bins regularly. If a heavy infestation appears, move healthy larvae to new containers and start fresh bedding. You can also add split pea powder to bedding to help kill off and prevent mites. 

Q5: When should I harvest larvae?

A: Harvest when they reach the size you need—commonly around 1" long. If selling or feeding to animals, pick uniformly large larvae for best results. If using a bucket sifter, any worms larger than the 1/12 mesh.

Q6: Can frass be used in the garden?

A: Yes—frass is a great soil amendment. Dry it and use sparingly in potting mixes or as a top-dress for houseplants.

Q7: How do I separate pupae efficiently?

A: Regular sifting using fine trays eliminates most manual picking. Designed sifter trays let mealworms fall through while retaining pupae for easy collection. Check out my Youtube videos for more info on this!

Q8: How warm should my room be?

A: Optimal temperatures are around 77–82 °F (25–28 °C). Below ~62 °F development slows substantially; very high temps can stress the colony.

Q9: Is it better to keep mixed-age bins or separate by life stage?

A: Both work. Mixed bins are easy, but separating by stage gives steady harvests and simpler management if you want reliable, frequent yields.

Q10: How often do beetles lay eggs?

A: Once beetles mature, they begin laying eggs within days and can continue for up to 12 weeks. A continuous production system relies on overlapping generations. 

Q11: How many mealworms should I keep for a steady supply?

A: For a steady small supply, several stacked trays staggered by 2–3 weeks is ideal. Exact numbers depend on your feed needs—start small and scale with surface area.

Q12: Can I use household scraps to feed them?

A: Use fresh vegetable wedges (carrot, potato) for moisture. Avoid greasy, wet, or heavily seasoned scraps which cause mold and odors.

Wrapping Up

Raising mealworms is simple once you master a few habits: keep bedding dry and fresh, separate life stages regularly, manage moisture carefully, and use the right tools (like a pupae sifter) to cut down on manual work. If you want to try a tool that speeds up sorting and cleanup, our laser-cut sifter trays are built with hobbyists in mind.

Shop sifter trays — get 10% off   Order live mealworms

Join the conversation: Mealworm Farming Facebook Group • Community resources at mealwormfarming.com.